mollie d asked:
I’ve put up new drywall, but I don’t want to do all the mudding. I plan on putting up wallpaper, so all I really want is to cover the ***** holes and seams. My husband wants to do the mudding and paint, but it takes such a fine job to then be able to paint. Is there another way to do this without mudding? Also, one person said to put vinegar in paint, I’ve never heard of that. Either way I do plan on putting a coat of primer one because I hear that makes the wallpaper adhear better and it’s easier to get off.
I’ve put up new drywall, but I don’t want to do all the mudding. I plan on putting up wallpaper, so all I really want is to cover the ***** holes and seams. My husband wants to do the mudding and paint, but it takes such a fine job to then be able to paint. Is there another way to do this without mudding? Also, one person said to put vinegar in paint, I’ve never heard of that. Either way I do plan on putting a coat of primer one because I hear that makes the wallpaper adhear better and it’s easier to get off.
The whole purpose to ‘mudding’ is to cover the screw/nails and fill in the joints between the sheets. If you want your wall paper to be smooth, then you will have to put the joint compound on.
Something you didnt mention, is taping the joints…. there are two kinds of joint tape, a paper tape, and a fiber mesh tape. The fiber mesh usually comes with a slight adhesive to the back of it, making it easy to apply. You can literally, stick it to the drywall, and then apply your mud. Being an open mesh, the mud goes right thru the tape, anchoring it in place.
Something to keep in mind when applying wall joint compound… the smoother you put it on wet, the less sanding you will have to do! So, try not to leave any excess ridges =)
Throw your first application of mud on with about a 6 inch joint knife… second with about an 8 to 10 inch and third with a 10 to 14 inch. Each time you apply the joint compound, you should be using a wider taping knife to smooth it out.
Ive also used a damp sponge, to ’sand’ with, instead of sanding screens. You can do this if youve been careful about how you applied the mud. And its a lot cleaner than having all that sanding dust floating everywhere, hehehe.
Let the compound dry 12 to 24 hours between each coat, to allow for shrinkage, in any particularly large gaps.
Painting is not necessary, but a good coat of primer is. If you don’t, then you will end up with the wall being different colors, behind your wall paper. Kilz is an excellent primer. You can get it in oil or water base…and the water base is much easier to clean up after. ( I normally use it on new sheetrock, and the oil base, on repairs, especially water stains )
Oh! There is an alternative… lol… if you want the room to look like a mobile home, you could apply trim strips over the joints (after papering), instead of mudding the joints! =D
mudding is really the only way to cover the ***** holes and seams. Sanding is the messy part. You can actually use a wet sponge instead of sandpaper to smooth the finish. it is alot less messy and finishes better.